I've been having trouble finding new web sites that show antique quilts from the 1800s. But I recently found this site. Check out
the quilts of the Great Lakes Quilt Center of Michigan State University Museum.
The first quilt shown in the collection is a wholecloth from 1790. The most
recent is 1993. Although
navigation through the quilts is pretty clunky you do see some wonderful old
quilts. There are very few pieced quilts compared to whole cloth and applique.
Let's try a little paper piecing for this month's block. And, yes, you will be making your own foundations.
This
month’s block was shown in the book Remember Me by Linda Otto
Lipsett. Rather than being a book
of patterns it is a history of friendship quilts that became a fad in New
England in the early 1840s and
then spread west as people migrated. This block can be made leaving room for a signature of a
friend or perhaps the maker’s name, date and location. I made mine with a regular 9 patch in
the center. Check below for a
close up picture of the block from the book if you would like to leave room for
a signature.
Cutting:
Cut – 8 -- 3
½” squares. 4 are for the foundation pieced triangle units and 4 for the
outside corners of the block. (If
you don’t mind using a larger piece of fabric on your foundation cut a piece
larger than 3 ½” but I had good luck cutting the exact size.)
Cut – 8 – 2
½” x 4 ½” rectangles for the sides of the triangle units
Cut – 5 – 1 ½” square of dark fabric for center 9
patch*
Cut – 4 – 1 ½” square of light
or medium fabric for center 9 patch*
*(If you want to make
this like the photo from the book cut one light rectangle 3 ½” by 1 ½”; 4 dark
or medium 1 ½” squares and 2 light 1 ½” squares. (use photo to the right for
how to place fabrics for the patch.)
Making the foundation:
Using 4 squares to the inch graph paper draw a 3” square. Mark the center of the top. Draw diagonal lines from the center out
to each of the bottom corners. Then draw a ¼” seam allowance around the
previously drawn square. Extend
the diagonal lines through to the
cutting lines. Note that the
bottom of the diagonal lines do not go through the center of the corner of the
cutting lines. Yep, that’s the way
it is suppose to be.
Make 4 copies
on the foundation paper of your choice.
I’ve had really good luck with Electric Quilt’s Foundation Sheets. I was amazed how easily they tear off. If you choose to print copies of your foundation make sure you check that from seam line to seam line the block is 3" square. With the seam allowance added the block should be 3 1/2" unfinished. I found it just as easy to trace 4 copies on my foundation paper.
Sewing:
Layout the 1 ½” blocks to form a nine patch. Sew the patches to form rows; then sew
the rows together.Press each seam to the darker fabric. The
only difference if you are making the signature block is you have a rectangle
in the center rather than 3 blocks to sew together. Sew the units into rows,
matching seam lines. The
unfinished block is 3 ½”.
Paper Piecing the
triangle blocks:
When sewing paper foundations use a smaller stitch. I usually set my machine for 1.5
(normal is 2.5). It is recommended
to use a larger needle but I generally don’t unless I’m using copy paper rather
than a thinner paper. For foundation piecing you line up your fabrics on the
right side (no writing) of the foundation and pin and sew from the wrong
side. To hold the 3 ½” square
inside the drawn square, I used a very
small dab from a glue stick. I placed the glue inside the sewing line at the
top triangle and inside the sewing line at each bottom corner. (It’s best to use temporary glue if you
have it although I used so little of the permanent glue I had on hand it wasn’t an issue.)
It was
much easier for me to work with the next fabrics not having to deal with pins
or the first fabric moving.
Holding the foundation to the light, place the rectangle piece so that
¼” is over the sewing line, right side to right side. Because I have problems getting fabrics to completely cover
the required space, I always pin on
the seam lines, flip the fabric over and make sure there is enough fabric to
cover all the way to the cutting line of the foundation. If there is, I pin
perpendicular to the seam line and then remove the pins on the stitching line.
If the fabric doesn’t cover all the way to the cutting lines try again until it
does. Stitch right on the line from cutting line to cutting line. Fip fabric 2
into correct position to make sure it actually covers the whole #2 space and
the seam allowances. (Hey, I double check ALL the time on foundations…) Fold back the foundation on the sewn
line and make sure #2 fabric is out of the way and cut fabric #1 a quarter inch from the seam line. Iron
fabric #2 in place.
Repeat for fabric #3 – sew on the line, trim the under fabric away
leaving a ¼” seam. Iron the unit.
Trim the block on the cutting lines. It should measure 3 ½” unfinished. Carefully remove your foundation from each block. Be careful handling the blocks at this
point as there is some bias in pieces # 2 and # 3.
Layout the block as shown and sew the units into rows. I pressed my seams to the darks in my
block but the center row I pressed to the little 9 patch. Sew rows together.
We are close to having all the blocks made for this quilt. I will have two more blocks to share
with you and will give you measurements to put the tree of life block on point. I haven’t decided about borders but I’m
sure the top will need some. My
big question is will I run out of my fabrics before the borders? Seeing my block in the pictures made me question the colors of the nine patch. Don't know whether I will change them or not. Here's a final picture of the quilt this block was taken from. This quilter was very careful about her use of stripes. She did a great job with them.
